The generators serve only as bootstraps, a rough scaffold to cover your basic CRUD operations. A lot of noobs get tripped up by this in the beginning, mistakenly believing that scaffolding is all there is to Rails.
I rarely use the generators thanks to plugins like resourceful_controller, where you get all the RESTful actions for free in one line of code (all the actions are still tweakable too)
The only generator I really use is one I wrote myself to write my views the way I like them (in HAML with all the helpers I've written)
I too have dabbled in PHP (and Java before running away screaming) and I can tell you, the joy of rails is not in the generators, its the expressiveness and conciseness of Ruby.. so to answer your question:
You do quite a bit of coding in RoR, but significantly less than you need to in other frameworks.